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120 Reef

Seahorse Tank

Tanganyikan Tank

Victorian Tank

My 390 Gallon Plywood/Glass Aquarium


I will be documenting my build as I go along. I also will be building a stand for the tank. To see my earlier projects, see my DIY practice page. I used the plans seen on the GARF page as basic guidelines and my practice with 20, 36 and 120 gallon tanks that worked well after working out the bugs. See an article I wrote for Cichlid Forum.
Tank Specs:

  • Dimensions: 76" x 48" x 25" high (plan for 1 inch top not filled, so effective depth will be 24". Using 3/4" exterior grade oak plywood. will have 3 6 inch braces across the top.
  • Glass (1/2") windows on 3 sides
  • plan for 2 12 x 18" overflows with 1 1/2" durso standpipes, each draining to their own 38 gallon refugium and 50 gallon sump with returns at the top of the tank.
  • Plan for tunze stream for internal flow
  • Ultimately will be a reef tank, but will start with Live rock and deep sand bed, well stocked and let it culture for a bit.
  • Stand made using modified plans from GARF. Top and Bottom frams using 2x4's with 2 1/2 " wood screws. supported by 2x4 frame and 8 4x4's. basically overbuilt. bottom frame work given support so with 1/2" plywood, to sit fuges and sumps on. plan on having book shelf in front and cabinet doors on both long sides. back will be open to wall, for easier access to pipe works.
  • Plan when I get to it to make a 6 foot tall, 8" Counter current type skimmer using plnas from Snailman's Reef

Pics:
January 2004:
Perspective shot with my kids:
Stand Frame 3.04 (not yet done)
Windows cut out:
Tank and Stand (stand now only needs floor/walls

Tank has all of the holes predrilled every 2 inches for 2 1/2 " wood screws. Soon I will use gorilla (or any waterproof) wood glue to bond each piece together. As I put them together I will screw in all the screws, no need for clamps. Once the tank is screwed and glued together, I will also put in the braces and overflows and then start sealing the tank with 2 part potable epoxy paint. I will probably put a layer of fiberglass matting sealed with resin first then 3-4 coats of epoxy. I plan to paint with epoxy the top and inside of the stand (non potable) to protect against the saltwater inevitable spills.

April 13, 2004:
Tank is now glued and screwed together. Will next seal with fiberglass cloth/resin, then several coats of potable epoxy paint.
Also getting closer to finishing stand. Internal flooring with 3/4" plywood soon to be sealed with epoxy for refugia/sumps. Front shelving in place almost. Only needs molding on corners and cabinet doors on the sides.



Stand top and inside sealed with 2 part epoxy for water proofing. Bottom of tank and inner portion of tank done as well (had extra). Plan to use fiberglass resin then several coats of potable epoxy on tank.


Feel free to email me with suggestions and/or comments docforestal@comcast.net

This page updated SJanuary 7, 2006